Some things just say DINNER. For example a t-bone steak hot off the grill or a steaming bowl of buttery mash potatoes glistening under dim dinner lighting. While, other things blatantly scream NEW YORK CITY UNDERPASS, like greasy bums with gray faces, and NYC’s very own flying rat, the pigeon. So, of course, when I saw pigeon on the menu at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor last night, I just haaaad to give it a whirl as my entree. I debated on ordering a so-called ‘sure thing,’ like the duck a l’orange, or the sirloin au poivre. But after discussing the wild game surf & turf cooking contest idea with everyone, I could not respectfully back down from the pigeon. Plus I was curious, and someone recently recommended dove as a tasty bird. I think pigeon and dove are similar if not the same (???).
It was seasoned with sage, and served with mushroom gravy, broccolini, and mashed root vegetables. I forgot to ask the waiter if it had been frozen, but at such a fine establishment, I figured the meats are probably fresh. I have to say it was a mix of delicious and so-so. The bird was served whole, and the meat was a beautiful golden brown, and red in the center. The taste was savory and robust, but definitely gamey – which was definitely enhanced by the use of sage. The breast meat was the best part, but I felt like there were so many small bits that were good to eat, and hard to access on the little bird. I also wish that the skin had crisped up. I think all birds should be serviced with crispy skin, and it also made me suspect that it may have been frozen. I remember serving semi-boneless duckling at Le Chef that came prepackaged frozen from Sysco – and that always came out with rubbery skin. Unlike the fresh duck served at the old John Duck’s that was super crisp every time. Anyway, I don’t really know if pigeon is for me, or quail, or any really small birds. They remind me of crab, too much work for too little yield. Perhaps, off the bone, I would like better. But I have no regrets. It was yummy to taste, and I always enjoy sinking my teeth into a new cut of fresh meat. ;)

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